Common Polaris Codes

1127

Over/Under Boost.

This code has many different causes. Below i will list some of the most common issues that sets this code.

  • BOV-This is the most common, a plugged (bov air filter) or sticky bov will delay the release of pressure from the charge tube causing an over boost usually when you let off the throttle. Additionally a bad bov that is stuck open will bleed out your boost pressure while driving and the turbo cannot overcome that, causing and under boost situation. You should never hear air coming from your engine bay unless you let off the gas.

  • MAP Sensor-The map sensor on the charge tube and intake. They are both the same sensors and interchangeable. Most times these codes get thrown from damaged wiring or unseated plugs. If you installed a charge tube and got this code immediately after starting the machine, you likely have a bad wire to the sensor.

  • Wastegate Rod-Sometimes the eyelet on the wastegate rod can get rusty and cause the wastegate actuator rod to not move freely.

  • Boost Solenoid- This controls the boost pressures from the ecu. It is attached to the frame above the turbo. It has 3 small hoses going to it. The inlet (metal Nipple) is from the turbo itself, the straight line going out the other side goes to atmosphere. The third line goes to the wastgate actuator. Sometimes mud can plug the atmosphere line up and then cause issues.

  • Wastegate Crack Pressure-If the wastegate isn’t tight enough this can cause and under boost situation. Where the ecu isn’t getting to target boost. Generally this happens when the wastegate spring isn’t tight enough and letting excess boost out the wastegate door prematurely. Tightening the wastegate rod to the correct crack pressure will resolve this. If its too tight it will cause over boost. Same solution to both problems. Usually a dealer will have to reset this code or drive it till it disappears.

  • Cracked/Dry Rotted Vacuum Line- Commonly seen on 16 turbos, the vaccum line that goes from the turbo to the boost solenoid or from the solenoid to the wastegate actuator cracks and leaks pressure. Telltale sign of this is when you touch the hoses and they turn your fingers black. That means they are dry rotted and probably cracked.

  • Underboost/No Power- If a charge tube was recently installed recheck all the band clamps to make sure they are still tight and in place. If a charge tube wasnt installed, check the stock charge pipe for leaks or blow outs. Sometimes when it gets hot out they can blow out.

  • Cracked Turbo - Its common for the turbos to crack between the wastegate port and the exhaust port and will cause an underboost condition. See picture below.

1127.jpg

520344

This has to do with the o2 emissions system. Basically there are two codes that come from this. Here is what we have found about them.

  • 15(Rich)-This is most commonly caused by a dirty air filter, stuck injector or simply a bad 02 sensor. Also Confirm that your MAP sensors are clean. Can also be caused by exhaust and intake leaks.

  • 17(Lean)-This is most commonly caused by a bad fuel pump. 9 times out of 10 on a rzr a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter will throw this code. If your filter has been clogged for very long you will also need a new fuel pump as it wont sustain the right pressure after getting overworked with the plugged filter. Can also be a bad o2 sensor.

520344.jpg

65590, 91, 92

General Misfire- Can be caused my many things.

  • Belt-An hour glassed or burnt belt will cause the motor to pick up on skips as the belt goes around

  • Spark Plugs- A spark plug that is old, damaged or dirty. If the spark plug isnt gapped correctly the boost can also blow the spark out and cause a miss.

  • Coil-The coil can cause misfires. We have replaced a few, but the most common problem we see with them is when they are mounted right next to a bov, they can rub the wiring raw and bare and short them out on the bov.

  • Plug Wires-Bad plug wires are pretty common, they are delicate wires and are known to get stuck on the coil. If you aren’t careful they are easy to damage.

  • Injectors-Injectors can stick open or not open at all and cause a misfire. If an injector is suspected, switch the injectors and see if the misfire moves to the other cylinder.

  • Intercooler(Turbo Models)-Intercoolers in the intake plenum are notorious for leaking and injecting coolant into the intake and causing it to wash out the plugs. It will cause large clouds of white smoke and run like shit over a certain point in the throttle depending how bad the leak is.

  • Compression- If you lost compression in a cylinder it can cause hard starting and misfires. If the machine is still running, id check the air filter and make sure it didn’t fail and let dust go down the intake tube.

  • Timing-If your machine jumped timing it will cause compression loss and misfiring.

  • Fuel Volume/Pressure- Bad fuel pumps and clogged filters will cause misfire codes. Not getting enough fuel.

  • Vac Line Leak/Bad BOV (Turbo Models)- This will present itself as backfiring and missing right when you start to build boost. the harder you push it the more it misses. This is caused by a split or leaky vac line that comes off the fuel pressure regulator. This can also be caused by a bad bov that has a hole or bad seal. Essentially if that line wont hold pressure then the boost wont cause the machine to build fuel pressure and it will lean out and miss. A turbo should build 2PSI fuel pressure for every 1psi of boost. At idle its 58PSI =/-2PSI so you cant run 58 at full throttle.

PTO<—Driver    Passenger—>MAG

PTO<—Driver Passenger—>MAG